Mykonos wears two faces, and the trick is knowing you get to choose which one. There is the Mykonos of glossy beach clubs and legendary nights, and there is the Mykonos of quiet whitewashed lanes, sleepy northern coves and long lunches by the water. Both are real, both are wonderful, and a good trip mixes them on your terms. Here is how to plan a first visit that feels like your Mykonos, not somebody else’s highlight reel.

Mykonos Town: the maze you want to get lost in

Mykonos Town, or Chora, is one of the prettiest in all of Greece: a deliberate labyrinth of dazzling white lanes, blue shutters, cascading bougainvillea and boutique after boutique. Getting lost is the point, so put the map away for an hour. Wander down to Little Venice, where the houses drop straight into the sea, and out to the iconic windmills on the ridge above for the classic sunset.

Come back after dark and the same lanes turn into an open-air party, with bars and restaurants spilling into the alleys. Mornings, by contrast, are blissfully calm, so early risers get the whole postcard to themselves.

The beaches: pick your energy

Mykonos beaches split neatly by mood. The south coast holds the famous scene: Paradise and Super Paradise for the party crowd, Paraga for a slightly mellower beach-club day, and Platis Gialos and Psarou for polished, organised beaches with sunbeds and good food. This is where the DJ sets and champagne afternoons happen.

For calm, head north and around. Agios Sostis is a beautiful, largely undeveloped beach with no facilities, so bring your own water and shade. Ftelia draws windsurfers when the meltemi blows. Ornos and Agios Ioannis are gentle, family-friendly bays with easy access and sunset views.

A crescent of golden sand with turquoise water and sunbeds at a beach club on the south coast of Mykonos

Nightlife: the reason many people come

Mykonos has earned its reputation. The scene starts in the afternoon at the beach clubs, moves to the bars of Chora at sunset, and rolls into the small hours at the big clubs. It is glamorous, expensive and gloriously over the top, and even if you are not a clubber, one sunset drink at a Little Venice bar or a beach-club afternoon is worth doing once.

A tip: reserve a table or sunbed ahead for the famous venues in peak season, and pace yourself. The party here is a marathon, and it never really stops before dawn.

Sail to Delos and the hidden covesA small-group boat day reaches the beaches and the ancient island you cannot see from the road

Where to base yourself

Your neighbourhood shapes your trip. Chora puts you in the heart of the dining, shopping and nightlife, walkable but busy and pricey. Ornos and Platis Gialos are the easiest beach bases, family-friendly with reliable bus links into town. Paradise and Paraga are for those who want the party on their doorstep. For peace, a view and a slower rhythm, look at the quieter areas around Agios Ioannis or the north.

Whatever you choose, the local bus network connects the main beaches and town cheaply, and taxis are limited, so factor transport into where you sleep.

A half-day beyond the beaches

If you want a break from sun and sand, take the short boat to Delos, the sacred ancient island just offshore and one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece. Half a day among its ruined temples and mosaics, with almost no shade and a lot of history, is a completely different side of Mykonos and a genuine highlight.

Ancient marble ruins and columns on the island of Delos near Mykonos under a clear blue sky

The islands people pair with Mykonos

Very few trips are Mykonos alone, and the three usual companions are quite different. And for the same island laid out day by day, with the ancient site alongside the beaches, there is five days in Mykonos and Delos.

Santorini is the other famous name and the one most often booked alongside it, where the accommodation decision matters more than anywhere in Greece; our guide to where to stay in Santorini covers the villages and the view.

Crete offers the beaches Mykonos does not, and the two on its west coast are the ones people travel for; our Balos and Elafonisi guide covers reaching them.

Corfu is the green alternative on the other side of the country, and a genuine change of scene rather than more of the same; our Corfu guide covers it.

The short version

Give Mykonos two or three nights, split between the town, a party beach and a quiet one, and choose your base for the trip you actually want. Book your room early for summer, reserve the big nightlife venues ahead, and save half a day for Delos. Do that and you will leave understanding exactly why this small, bright island has been drawing travellers for generations.